The name “Augrabies” stems from the word “Aukoerebis”, that’s what the Khoi people called the place. It translates to “great noice” because of the water falls that are fed by the 18km long Orange River gorge, especially during the rainy season. Unfortunately, we were there during the dry season: still some water but not much noice at all….. The falls are 56 meter high. However, they don’t look that high because the water runs down in cascades and not as a big steep fall.
Nevertheless, the landscape is breathtaking, great views and beautiful desert colors at sunset. There are some remarkable spots worth visiting and at the end of the days, it is great to go back to your bungalow and have a great meal at the camp’s restaurant – including our most favorite dessert Malva-cake. But see yourself:
Kgalagadi Park is one of the largest SANParks (South African National Parks) and the only one comprising two National Parks across border, a smaller part in South Africa and the bigger rest in Botswana. The name Kgalagadi means “place of thirst” in the local language because it is located within the Kalahari desert. We were so eager to get here that we forgot our camera bag at the Molopo Lodge where we stopped for lunch on the way. Only when we arrived in the Park did we realise it was missing. PANIC! Luckily, the lodge owner was so nice and kept it safe for us so the only thing we lost was the two-hour round trip. Phew! A pretty small price to pay.
As it turned out, that wasn’t the only mistake we made for this part of the trip. Firstly, we were pretty late with our planning so all the wilderness camps further north in the park were already fully booked by the time we enquired. We were forced to stay in Twee Rivieren Camp for all the three nights we were there, which was really unfortunate. The best way to explore a Safari, for us, is to stay one night a each camp and move on the next day so that you don’t have to drive the same road twice. Besides, the wilderness camps are much more adventurous and interesting because they lie deep in the park with lots of opportunities for game watching at sunset and during the night. The second mistake was our choice of transportation. You really need an SUV for a park like Kgalagadi to be able to go off-road deep into the Park to look for the most interesting animals. Our sedan shamefully failed as we tried to cross a small sand dune. Our third mistake, luckily our last, was the shortage of time of our schedule. We could have easily spent the whole week in this park because we both liked it so much. The pleasant weather in the desert during Spring time, the excitement when spotting a new specie we hadn’t yet known, the enormity of the Park, its color, its smell. We loved absolutely everything we saw and enjoyed every minute of the trip. When we left we already knew it wasn’t our last time there.
After 5 days in Cape Town we hit the road for the North, driving through Western Cape province – a huge area with the least population in South Africa. It was actually our anniversary but we must have forgotten it while planning this trip so we spent the entire day sitting in the car. Even though the main roads in SA are pretty good maintained, it’s a very long drive from Capetown to Kgalagadi National Park so we decided to take a break and spent the night in Kenhardt, a small town in the middle of nowhere in the Western Cape. The landscape started to change slowly but dramatically, the further North we were, the less green and the more deserted it became with not a single car/person or tree in sight. Although the drive was exhausting, it was deliberating at the same time. We were starting to feel at ease and leave all our worries behind.
Arriving in Oude Herberg in Kenhardt, the number 1 hotel in town – and the only one. We received a very warm welcome from the owner – a nice lady in her 50s. She even cooked dinner for us herself, very tasty steaks, I believe it was springbok. The room was kind of old-fashioned and unique: the toilet was separated from the rest of the room by a folding-screen ;-). It was simple, but very authentic. We took a walk after dinner around the very deserted town, trying to imagine how life in a place like that would be. Finally we found the most beautiful thing Kenhardt had to offer, its incredibly bright sky with a zillion stars at night.
On our last day in Cape Town we hiked up Table Mountain via Skeleton Gorge hiking trail starting in the Kirstenborsch Botanical Garden, which is a more interesting trail compared to the shorter one starting in the Table Mountain Park J once did.