South Africa ’13, Part 6: Langebaan Lagoon


Langebaan is one of the many beach towns on the west coast of South Africa. We dicided to make a stop here hoping for some sea-sand-sun time but weren’t lucky with the weather. Afterall, September was post-winter time and the Atlantic ocean was never a warm place to swim in. We ended up spending most of our time by the pool at the hotel, going for long walks on the beach (imaginatively) picking out our favorite beach homes, and eating tons of seafoods every day.

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The weather was pretty much like this the whole time: a little sun, a little rain, and lots of clouds.

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Beach town in Langebaan lagoon.

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We also visited a small National Park nearby that had one of the most beautiful beaches on the west coast: no single restaurant, no single tent, just you and the nature around.

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It was a very windy day and the ocean seemed a bit “angry” as well.

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The highlight of Langebaan is properly this beach bar /restaurant named Strandlooper. It looks more like a pirate hideaway than a restaurant and that’s the charm of it. Besides, you are served 10-course menu which are all prepared/grilled in front of your eyes. It’s nothing fancy but great seafoods prepared in the simpliest way, and the atmostphere was absolutely adorable. It was a little chilly on that day but the sun more than made up for it. We’d come here every week if we lived nearby.

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South Africa ’13, Part 5: Augrabies Falls National Park

The name “Augrabies” stems from the word “Aukoerebis”, that’s what the Khoi people called the place. It translates to “great noice” because of the water falls that are fed by the 18km long Orange River gorge, especially during the rainy season. Unfortunately, we were there during the dry season: still some water but not much noice at all….. The falls are 56 meter high. However, they don’t look that high because the water runs down in cascades and not as a big steep fall.

Nevertheless, the landscape is breathtaking, great views and beautiful desert colors at sunset. There are some remarkable spots worth visiting and at the end of the days, it is great to go back to your bungalow and have a great meal at the camp’s restaurant – including our most favorite dessert Malva-cake. But see yourself:

Besides the falls, Augrabies is also known for the black hills. It looks particularly nice in dry season with the the yellow-ish grass in between the dark rocks and hills.

Would be nice to have a carpet at home which is as cozy as the grass here

Orange river gorge
More dry grass

One of the best sunsets during our trip
A very remarkable landmark: a huge solid rock called “Moon rock” or “Whaleback”. The picture only shows a small part of it, it takes quite a while to climb on its top.
Augrabies falls with low water levels
Close-up of the falls at day time…
… and a bit more impressive look at night taken with long exposure

Rock dazzies are all over the place, the always seem to look kind of angry at you

The best thing at the end of a great day !!

 

South Africa ’13, Part 4: Kgalagadi Park


Kgalagadi Park is one of the largest SANParks (South African National Parks) and the only one comprising two National Parks across border, a smaller part in South Africa and the bigger rest in Botswana. The name Kgalagadi means “place of thirst” in the local language because it is located within the Kalahari desert. We were so eager to get here that we forgot our camera bag at the Molopo Lodge where we stopped for lunch on the way. Only when we arrived in the Park did we realise it was missing. PANIC! Luckily, the lodge owner was so nice and kept it safe for us so the only thing we lost was the two-hour round trip. Phew! A pretty small price to pay.

As it turned out, that wasn’t the only mistake we made for this part of the trip. Firstly, we were pretty late with our planning so all the wilderness camps further north in the park were already fully booked by the time we enquired. We were forced to stay in Twee Rivieren Camp for all the three nights we were there, which was really unfortunate. The best way to explore a Safari, for us, is to stay one night a each camp and move on the next day so that you don’t have to drive the same road twice. Besides, the wilderness camps are much more adventurous and interesting because they lie deep in the park with lots of opportunities for game watching at sunset and during the night. The second mistake was our choice of transportation. You really need an SUV for a park like Kgalagadi to be able to go off-road deep into the Park to look for the most interesting animals. Our sedan shamefully failed as we tried to cross a small sand dune. Our third mistake, luckily our last, was the shortage of time of our schedule. We could have easily spent the whole week in this park because we both liked it so much. The pleasant weather in the desert during Spring time, the excitement when spotting a new specie we hadn’t yet known, the enormity of the Park, its color, its smell. We loved absolutely everything we saw and enjoyed every minute of the trip. When we left we already knew it wasn’t our last time there.

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Our “home” and our car – the latter was certainly the wrong choice for that park
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Entering the Park
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Hundreds or even thousands of little weaver birds are building these nests, sometimes you even see them on top of power poles

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Springbok
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Fighting springboks
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This springbok obviously had been very lucky some time ago!

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Vulture
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A herd of wildebeest
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Crimson-breasted shrike

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Sometimes it’s not easy to spot smaller animals with good camouflage like this jakal

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Sleepy owl
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yawning cheetah one early morning

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It took a while before we spotted the first giraffes
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and then there were plenty of them

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Impressive gemsbok, A ranger once told us that their horns are riffled to cause more damage when pulling them out of their opponent….
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I guess he knows how to defend himself
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He was standing right next to our car
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Lunch break
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They’re having a break too. Totally unimpressed of our presence only 10m away from their sleeping place. We certainly didn’t want to wake them up.
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We couldn’t easily spent the whole week here.

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Sunset at Two Rivers Restcamp
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A native San inhabitant. A couple hundred years ago they used to be the only people living in this area. Nowadays there are only small groups left and some of them, like this guy, try to make money buy selling some hand-crafted works to tourists.

South Africa ’13, Part 4: Long drive to Kenhardt (Western Cape)

After 5 days in Cape Town we hit the road for the North, driving through Western Cape province – a huge area with the least population in South Africa. It was actually our anniversary but we must have forgotten it while planning this trip so we spent the entire day sitting in the car. Even though the main roads in SA are pretty good maintained, it’s a very long drive from Capetown to Kgalagadi National Park so we decided to take a break and spent the night in Kenhardt, a small town in the middle of nowhere in the Western Cape. The landscape started to change slowly but dramatically, the further North we were, the less green and the more deserted it became with not a single car/person or tree in sight. Although the drive was exhausting, it was deliberating at the same time. We were starting to feel at ease and leave all our worries behind.

Driving through Western Cape
Driving through Western Cape
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endless road
Flowers along the road, you can see them for only a short period in SA spring time
Wild flowers along the road, you can see them for only a short period in SA spring time
Changing landscape as we go
Changing landscape as we go

Arriving in Oude Herberg in Kenhardt, the number 1 hotel in town – and the only one. We received a very warm welcome from the owner – a nice lady in her 50s. She even cooked dinner for us herself, very tasty steaks, I believe it was springbok. The room was kind of old-fashioned and unique: the toilet was separated from the rest of the room by a folding-screen ;-). It was simple, but very authentic. We took a walk after dinner around the very deserted town, trying to imagine how life in a place like that would be. Finally we found the most beautiful thing Kenhardt had to offer, its incredibly bright sky with a zillion stars at night.

The watch-dog
The watch-dog, I think she liked me.
Sunset in Kenhardt, looks more romantic than it actually was ;-)
Sunset in Kenhardt, more romantic in picture than it actually was 😉
And the journey continues the next morning
And the journey continued the next morning

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