Category Archives: Asia

Vietnam ’15: Vietnamese language


Vietnamese language (tiếng Việt)

When commencing to learn Vietnamese you have a very happy start at first and even at second glance!

At first glance you will realise that Vietnamese is the only Asian language that uses Latin letters with some accent like funny bows, lines and dots that don’t seem to bother you much (remember, we’re still at first glance!). In the 17th century some Portuguese missionary had put a hell lot of effort into “translating” the Vietnamese language (then a similar sign language like Chinese) into Latin letters. They used the above mentioned bows, lines and dots to address the pronunciation of the vocals and words. This sounds pretty easy, so no worries..

At second glance, you will realise that the grammar is incredibly easy: no conjugation, no declination, no past tense, no past perfect, no future, no subjunctive, no active/passive voice – heaven !!! (foreigners who have tried to learn German or French will know what I mean). Guess, now you think “how can this work?”. Quite easy: if you want to talk about something that already happened in the past, you just have to add the word “đã” in front of the present-tense verb (it means something like “did happen”) and you’re done. For example, “đã nấu cơm” means dinner already cooked, “đã thấy” means already saw/seen. Couldn’t be easier, right? Same is true for the future tense with adding “sẽ” (will happen).

The first and biggest real hurdle though is knowing the right personal pronouns to use. In Vietnam, family and hierarchy within the family plays a major role in the society, which is also reflected in the language. The most respectable persons in the family are the (great) grandparents (ông – grandfather, bà – grandmother). You use these personal pronouns when you talk to them or to someone clearly older than you that you want to show your respect to. For uncles and aunts there are different pronouns depending on whether they belong to your mother’s or your father’s family – and there are usually many of them on both sides. To make things easier, the Vietnamese have a habit of calling their child by the order they’re bornt, but starting with No. 2 (don’t ask me why..). So for you as a child, “cậu tám” (uncle eighth) is the seventh child of your mother’s family (not the seventh son because there might be “dì bảy”, aunt seventh, before him). Correspondingly, “chú” and “cô” are uncle and aunt from your father side. Even when addressing yourself, you have to use different personal pronouns depending on whom you are talking to. For example, when I talk to P, I call her “em” and address myself as “anh”. But “anh” also means brother and “em” a younger sibling (could be either boy or girl). So if you, like me, used the same pronouns while talking to my future mother-in-law, she’d burst out laughing because from her perspective, you are “con” (child, children), and  only her husband or her older brother are allowed to call her “em”. See where i’m getting at?

Once you start to recover from all these confusions with the personal pronounces, you will realise the real challenge is still in front of you: the pronunciation!

I briefly mentioned some bows, dots and lines above: they either tell you how to pronounce a letter or how to raise or lower your voice when saying a word. There are six “tones” in the Vietnamese language but I will only mention two as an example: “tám” means “eight” and the little accent on top of the “á” means that you have to raise your voice just like you continuously raise a tone in a piece of music. You already know the word “bà”, the accent here telling you to lower your voice. And here the trouble starts! Vietnamese is a one-syllable language, i.e. each word consists of one syllable only. Hence the variety of different words is much more restricted compared to languages with multi-syllable words (and yes, Germans have certainly optimised the art of creating unending words!). Even foreign words adopted from other languages have been split into one-syllable words as well: e.g. the French word “café” became “cà phê” in Vietnamese. By using the accent the Vietnamese try to mimic the pronunciation of the original language, adopted to their own. That way though, the same set of letters can have multiple (!) meanings, just by adding different bows/dots/lines. There is certainly not enough space here to go into more details, the combinations of the letter “a” below will give you an idea of how many different pronunciations there can be:

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And each one of them has to be pronounced differently as well (!). Doing it wrong can give a word an entire different meaning. Take the word “ba” for instance. It means “father” (remember, it is also the personal pronoun for your father-in-law) and “three” at the same time. Now imagine you use the word “bà” instead (same as “ba” but lowering your voice as you speak). You either call your father-in-law grandma (which may cause laughter when you’re lucky) or you may order a “grandmother-beer” instead of  “three beers” – whatever a granny-beer may be ;-). In another example you may order “cơm gà” (chicken rice) in a restaurant , a dish the beautiful city of Hội An is very famous for, or you could as well order “cơm ga” (forgetting to lower your voice when saying “gà”) and the waiter would just ask himself what you mean by ordering “railway station rice”. Therefore, using/saying the wrong accent will very likely make you misunderstood. Finally, imagine a native talking to you at THEIR normal speed using all those short words that sound so similar to your European ears.. Now you’ve got the whole picture.

Nevertheless, this short article isn’t to say Vietnamese language is impossible to learn. Many people have done it and you can do it as well. I personally have met a German guy in Munich that could speak Vietnamese so fluently that even P was totally amazed. The pronunciation is difficult yes, but it’s also fun and the (very friendly) people in Vietnam will appreciate it very much if you try!

Chào tạm biệt (see you)

Vietnam ’15, Part 4: Hanoi

It was good to be back in the city because continously staring at the fog in Sapa made as kind of depressed. The bus tour was really comfortable, we used a sleeper bus that has three rows of bunk beds – certainly recommendable for longer trips.

There are a couple of things worth looking at but I’d say three days is more than enough to explore them. The atmosphere is very much different from Saigon. Especially the government district clearly shows you that you are in the capital of the country: broad streets, large colonial style government buildings and a huge park area with Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The many small and big lakes spread across the city also make the city feel less dense than many other cities that size. It is fun strolling through the narrow streets of the old city center. There are hundreds of shops and restaurants in which you can easily spend a whole afternoon.

And for those interested in the recent history of Vietnam, the “Maison Centrale” is recommendable. The buildings you find there, nowadays embedded into many modern buildings around, are the remainders of a formerly much bigger complex that was used as a prison from both the French during the colonial time as well as by the Vietnamese for American prisoners of war during the Vietnam war. Senator John McCain was the most prominent prisoner from 1967 to 1973 in the so-called “Hanoi Hilton”. Besides prison cells there’s a museum to visit with exhibits from both periods.

The pagodes we’ve seen weren’t that great and often over-crowded with tourists. The ones I saw in Saigon were much more impressing, calm and they make you feel like being in a spiritual place rather than in just another “follow-the-striped-umbrella” tourist group site. But that’s part of another post. Now see some of our impressions of Hanoi:

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Mobile flower market, quite common in the streets.
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This guy must know the train schedule by heart
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The three main means of transportation, all in one picture.
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… and here’s a more exceptional one 😉
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Mr. Lenin and a member of the working class. Interesting way to write his name. Vietnamese is a true one-syllable language.
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Soldiers practicing some military drill in front of Lenin’s statue.

 

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Chùa Một Cột (one pillar pagoda), interesting but also very crowded place, close to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
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The Ho Ci Minh mausoleum itself, which was closed that day.
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The president’s palace

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Chùa (Pagode) Trấn Quốc
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The entrance to Chùa Trấn Quốc, which closed that day….
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The history behind the tree on the next picture

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Coffee break
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I have to admit, we did not take one of these swans for a romantic boat trip on lake Trúc Bạch
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Đền Quán Thánh (some kind of pagoda, but additionally dedicated to a certain person) near lake Trúc Bạch

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This is only one of a couple of kitchen supply shops all very close to each in the same street – true competition!
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… the same is true for the music shops
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A busy round-about at night near Hoàn Kiếm Lake
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Lake Hoàn Kiếm – they say a very old big turtle lives in there (note: in 2016 the turtle was reported dead…..)

Vietnam ’15, Part 3: Sapa

Although we wished we’d squeezed in a little more time for Dong Hoi / Phong Nha National Park, we were eager to get on the plane to Hanoi and straight to Sapa, having seen so many stunning travel photos of it in the past. We met up with P’s mom and aunt, who flew in from Saigon, at Hanoi’s airport and went directly to the main railway station. There are only two means of public transportation one could take from Hanoi to Sapa, either by bus or by train. Since P never took the train in Vietnam before (her words, “no one take the train, or bus in Vietnam” ;-)) ), we decided we should give it a try.

It was a small challenge though, trying to buy/reserve/organize a pick-up for the train tickets. The (English) information you could find on the internet about the Vietnamese railway system is rather outdated and sometimes quite confusing, thus the only way to buy the tickets is really to come to the ticket booth at the train station as there is no online purchase, or through an agency which we did. Besides, there are zillion of agencies offering many different train categories from many trains of different names, from very basic to very luxurious (or so it said in their advertisement), which would make you think there are many “private” trains going between Hanoi and Sapa. But there wasn’t, but more on that later. Our next challenge was finding our way to the travel agency office to pick up our tickets after the taxi driver left us out outside the railway station (finding a place with an address in Vietnam isn’t always a straightforward task). Luckily, we had our native speaker with us ;-). Afterwards, there was still enough time for us to grab a quick bite and bought some water and snacks for our long overnight journey.

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Hanoi main railway station

As we later found out, there is only two kind of trains, both from the official Vietnamese/government railway company, leaving from Hanoi to Sapa a couple times a days, one took a litter longer than the other. Needless to say, we took the “fastest” one, and it still took almost 7 hours to travel a distance of roughly 300km. The different categories are cabins ranging from hard seat (plain wooden seat, no cover) to softbed with aircon. The travel agencies somehow manage to make them look way more luxurious than they really are. Upon arriving at the platform and taking a look at what other categories really looked like, we were very glad we chose not to save money here. Our sleeper cabin of 4 beds was quite small but ok (there were also cheaper cabins with 6 beds), but the bed, despite being categorized “soft”, was really really hard (!). So hard that we had backache the next day. But even that didn’t stop P and I from sharing the tiny bed, 60 cm wide at most, for the most part of our journey, until our bodies gave up and started screaming. It was fun nevertheless, we’re the cuddling kinds.

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our 60cm-wide softbeds in the airconditioned cabin

We arrived at Lao Cai main station in the early morning. The morning fresh air was great and we were so happy to be able to get off the train. In fron of the station, the crowds of taxi drivers fighting for first-time tourists were almost overwhelming. Being ones ourselves, but having done our homework (aka. reading the internet), we knew we could just go a little further to all the tourist buses waiting outside and pay much less for the drive to Sapa. After another hour on the bus driving up narrow and steep mountain roads, we finally arrived in Sapa, at 1600m high, to this outlook…

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View from our hotel rooms, supposedly over a beautiful valley of terraced rice fields

Yes, there was no outlook at all because fog had taken over Sapa that day, and the days afterward as the weather forecast had shown. We had many things planned out for Sapa like trekking down to the villages nearby with a local guide, visiting Ta Phin village for a Red Dao herbal bath, strolling along local markets but we could do none of that due to the heavily foggy weather. Sapa is not that big you can reach everything on foot. After checking in, we took the short walk from our hotel to the main townsquare looking for the famous Sapa Stone Church but didn’t seem to find it. As it turned out, we were standing right in front of it the whole time but couldn’t see through the fog. It was so dense you could barely see 30m ahead. Luckily, as we walked back to our hotel, the weather cleared up for what seemed like 5 minutes max, and allowed us to take a glimpse over the beautiful valley. The following photos were taken right then and there, also the only photos we had from Sapa.

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The main road from our hotel toward the main townsquare

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P with her mom and aunt
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Highly commercialized town

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The only time we got to take a glimpse into the valley

Our impression of Sapa? It’s a bit overrated and highly “commercialized”. You couldn’t walk 10m down the street without being “harrassed” by street vendors and travel “agents” trying to sell something to you. Big shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels are owned by none of the locals, the whole town didn’t give any sense of authenticity, much less coziness. Although we had read about it, but it turned out even worse than we had imagined. After almost 8 hours train plus an hour on the bus, we were more disappointed than ever, from any place we’d been to in Vietnam. In the evening, there wasn’t much to do except going to bars or getting a massage in one of the many studios along the main street, so we did both. After the first night had passed and the weather didn’t seem to improve, we knew we needed to make a plan B. P spent the whole morning talking to the travel agent in Hanoi into letting us return our train tickets with as little penalty as possible (we originally planned to spend 3 nights there), while trying simultaneously to book us into any bus leaving for Hanoi on the same day and of course a hotel in Hanoi. Mission was difficult, but accomplished nevertheless. She always gets things done ;-). After lunch, we packed our stuffs, hopped on the bus (quite comfortable to our surprise, they call it a bus with “lying seats” in Vietnam cause you can really lie down and stretch your legs) and left Sapa behind. We don’t think we’ve ever looked back.

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Quite comfortable bus drive to Hanoi, also faster than taking the train

Vietnam ’15, Part 2: Phong Nha

On our way heading up North, we made a quick stop (2nights) in Dong Hoi to explore Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park after reading all the raves about the Sơn Đoòng Cave, the biggest cave on the planet that had been discovered by a local a few years ago. Since it’s quite exclusive and requires booking very well in advance (one-week all inclusive guided tour, 1,5 years waiting time), we chose to visit Paradise Cave and explore the National Park in Phong Nha instead.

Phong Nha village is about an hour moped-ride from Dong Hoi airport, about 50km away. We could have had ourselves picked up by our hosts, but decided renting a bike would give us mobility and allow us to see more of the regional countryside that is still quite untouched by the outer world. It was worth it. The route was quite straight-forward as there was only 2 turns to make with proper street signes, and the road was fairly well maintained, for Vietnamese standards, with very few potholes. We drove mostly through rice fields with the exceptions of a couple houses and a few cafés along the road. It became real interesting once the first sight of mountainous scenery appreared. Before we knew it, we arrived in Son Trach village, ideally located along the Con River, where we spent our nights. As mentioned before, this part of Vietnam has remained quite untouched by mass tourism so everything is quite basic in this town. It has a few hostels, a couple restaurants, one or two bars, one ATM and that’s about it. There’s no super markets or convinient stores, if you need anything other than shampoos and softdrinks, my bet is you need to go back to Dong Hoi. The simpleness of it all was actually the reason we dicided not to stay longer, but turned out to be the thing we liked the most. The air was very clean, the people were very warm and helpful, and the mountainous scenery around was magnificent. It was also very quiet in general, so quiet that you could hear the cracking of the trees when someone step on them. Mostly, we only heard the birds singing, children playing and dogs barking ;-). It was strange, but spending a couple of days over there really brought us back to basic. And we loved it. It’s not one of our most favorite spots in Vietnam due to the modest quality of the foods and accommodations, but it’s definitely  a place we would come back to explore more.

On our search for a proper bed, we came across “Jungle Boss homestay”, run by Dzung and his (then expecting) wife and their little son. Their “home” is a rice field apart from the main road so it was a little difficult for us to find. But people didn’t invent cell phones for no reason ;-). On one of the nights we had dinner, cooked by his wife, with his family and other homestay guests in their living room (don’t remember how much we paid for it but it wasn’t much). It was fun and the foods were way better than what we had in one of the restaurants in the village. We learnt that Dzung had been helping other locals build up the homestay network for them to have an extra incomes and for tourists to have better, more authentic choices of accommodation. He’s also very active, along with other villagers, in protesting against the government plan of building the cable car network into the Son Doong Cave in order to make it accessible for the mass public, which would destroy its uniqueness and the eco tourism currently built around it. If only people in other parts of Vietnam would also think this way.

We actually booked two nights at “Jungle Boss Homestay” but our confirmation came a little late so we had to move to another homestay for the second night (they had only 3 rooms for rent in total).

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The “road” to Jungle Boss Homestay from the village
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Frontyard and view
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Affordable and homemade cocktails

In our short stay there, we chose to visit Paradise Cave, one of UNESCO’s Heritage Sites that we could easily access by our bikes (Phong Nha cave requires a boat ride and Hang En cave a two-day hike). The whole cave is 31 km long but only the first few kilometers have been explored. From the parking lot, it’s a short walk and a short hike up to the cave’s entrance. From there, you start to descend into the cave along established staircases which take you, at most, 1 kilometer into the dimly-lit spectacle. After adjusting our eyes, we could really admire the thrilling limestone formation of our mother nature.

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View from the entrance of Paradise cave

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On the way back from Paradise Cave we stopped for lunchbreak at Nuoc Moc river stream, in the middle of the jungle surrounded by Karst mountains. It was truly a lovely place where you can take a dip in the crystal clear water, order sticky rice with grilled chicken for lunch, or simply lay on your back and rest.

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Other “discovery” in the area.

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A christian graveyard on the countryside. Instead of the typical Vietnamese tombstone, there’s a little church tower at each grave.