Category Archives: Road trip

South Africa ’14, Part 5: Kruger National Park

Kruger is probably the biggest and most famous National Park in South Africa so it’s kind of a must-see when coming here. The park is so huge that we spent 5 days driving from one camp to the next and only covered half the ground.

Some note on the side: the purpose of visiting a safari is watching game so you drive very slowly to look for rarely-seen animals such as lions or leopards who hunt at night and spend their days sleeping, that’s why on average we drove only about 50-70km/day. The density of animals you see in the park depends heavily on the seasons. Dry season is always a good time to watch game because animals usually gather around the water holes. Sometimes people spend hours hiding around to wait for some interesting animals to show up.

Kruger has much greater population of wildlife than Hluhluwe or Kgalagadi but somehow it was the park we like the least. There are paved roads from North to South, from East to West with only a few dirt roads on the sides (which are the most fun to drive, off the beaten track and away from all the crowds) so you don’t really need a SUV to drive in here. There are also supermarkets and restaurants at most camps so no need to pre-purchase your whole supply of foods and water either (we had like ten liters of water in our van). Everything sounds really convenient, but that’s the thing that makes the whole experience a little less “interesting”, at least for us. Having fallen in love with Kgalagadi (we’re already planning a revisit for our next Botswana-Namibia trip) we came here hoping to “see” much more. We did see more wild animals than in other parks, but were a little bit disappointed nevertheless. Everything was so “civilized” in Kruger that we both felt like we were missing something the entire time. It was like being in a very big zoo with lots of lazy visitors who know so little about what-not-to-do or respecting the animals’ privacy (like the green car in the third picture), which was a bit annoying as well. Don’t get me wrong though, I would still recommend visiting Kruger if you have the chance because we did enjoy our time here a lot. We’re just pretty sure we wouldn’t come back the second time, mostly because there’s still so much else to see.

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No big surprise: impalas
Impalas, probably the most-seen animals in every park in South Africa. The locals call them “McDonald in the bush” for a reason.
A big guy, clearly showing signs of being in heat: wet rear legs and glands between ears and mouth producing some liquid. The brochure you receive when entering the park tells you explicitly to stay away from these guys!
African Elephants live in big family groups, while young males start to go their own way when reaching adulthood (very similar to lions in this respect). These young adults, especially ones that are trying to mark their domain by peeing or producing some liquid out of their ears and mouth, are often very aggressive and hence dangerous, you don’t want to mess with them. Even though you receive enough information like this upon entering the park, we had the feeling that most people didn’t even bother reading it. Like these below..
These crazy visitor obviously haven't read the brochure. 3 weeks ago an elephant had to be shot after having been in exactly the same situation - except that in this case the elephant turned the car upside down!
This car stood in the elephant’s way the whole time and wouldn’t go on reverse until the it got very very close. Because of reckless people like these, some elephants had gotten killed in Kruger for “attacking” visitors (you can google it, there’s lots of videos on youtube, sadly). But it’s not the elephant, it’s the people that provoke them. Some people just don’t get it. The park is their home so whey they have the feeling you’re trying to “invade” it, they’ll come at you. It’s not so hard to be respectful while in someone else’s home, isn’t it?!
Two kids having fun
Brotherhood
A 500mm lens is a must here
A 500mm lens is a must here
Breakfast time in the bush
I have to admit this is not a nice sight to see, but that’s life in the bush and visitors are not supposed to interfere in any way. You’re lucky if you’re on the upper end of the food chain.
Ducks
some peace every now and then
Funny guy crossing the street
J always has a better eye for spotting small creatures like this
Can't remember the name of these animals
Can’t remember the name of these animals
The female of the race I can't remember
The female of the race I can’t remember
Our car and bungalow
Our car and bungalow for the first night
We were lucky spotting the leopard while driving along a dirt road
We were very lucky to spot this leopard while driving along a dirt road cause they hunt at night and often sleep all day
Very sleepy.....
Very sleepy indeed …..
Giraffes again
Giraffes again

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Every giraffe has a different pattern
Well equipped with fridge !
Well equipped with fridge !
A rare bird called hornbill
A rare bird called hornbill

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Our only sighting of a buffalo herd
Our only sighting of a buffalo herd
Vultures
Vultures
Curious zebras
Curious Burchell’s Zebras
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isn’t he handsome?
Sun rising at Olifants rest camp. We woke up so early and enjoyed the sounds of the bush
Sun rising at Olifants Rest Camp where we spent our third night in the park. We often woke up early to enjoy the sounds of the bush
My beauty still a bit sleepy
My beauty still a bit sleepy

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A Baobab tree
A Baobab tree, the little white spot on the trunk is P !
Lunch break at another part of the river
Lunch break at another part of the river, typical landscape of Kruger Park.
Kissing hippos ?
Kissing hippos ?
Happy hippo family
Happy hippo family

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That has been a difficult shot with the big lens
That has been a difficult shot with the big lens
Looks like the heraldic bird for Germany
Looks like the heraldic bird for Germany
View from our last camp
Sunset view from our last camp. We had this entire 3-bedroom lodge for us which we barely needed. Somehow after 2 weeks in the country, we had gotten used to the sound of Hippos huffing at night and birds singing (very loudly) in the morning so if it had not been for the mosquitos, we would have slept outside that night, right here, on this terrace. How could you say no to this view.

Having fun while taking a selfie

Sunset, try to imagine the sound of Africa at night....
Sunset & the sound of Africa at night….

 

South Africa ’14, Part 4: St. Lucia


After falling totally in love with Umngazi River Resort, we didn’t expect much when arriving in St. Lucia knowing it’s a very small touristy village. That’s when you’re mostly positively surprised, I think. So were we.

We chose to stay at Lodge Afrique which was a little bit out of town, but like I said, it’s a really small town so we could still go everywhere on foot. One night on our way back to the Lodge after dinner, we saw a hippo grazing on the side of the street. We actually heard it first before spotting it cause it’s impossible not to recognise their huffing sound. We had heard about this being quite a frequent sight in St. Lucia, which has the highest density of Hippos and Crocodiles on the East Coast, witnessing it though was a different story, both exciting and frightening at the same time. People also told us that, despite being rather aggressive in the water, hippos are quite “human-friendly” on land knowing they’re not in their own territory. The most remarkably thing for us is, these hippos really went pretty far away from the water to reach downtown St. Lucia, which was like 10min drive with a car. Maybe they really thought the grass was greener on the other side ;-).

During our 4 days here, we went kayaking for crocodiles and hippos watching, visited the Crocodiles Center and learnt a lot about so many kinds of alligator and crocodile worldwide. We also loved hanging around in the garden of our Lodge and going for long walks along Cape Vidal beach. We were very sad to leave, but also every excited to reach our next destination, the one and only Kruger National Park.

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A small pathway leading to the bungalows of Lodge Afrique where we stayed in St Lucia
Lodge Afrique, which made us feel more like home than we expected. There’s a lot of privacy cause each room has its own entrance, as you can see here. It’s at the middle-price range and definitely a great value for your money.
Tessa, our host. She is such a wonderful person. Talking to her was a big pleasure. Hope she's doing fine!
Tessa, manager of the Lodge, who treated us so warmly we would come back to this place again just for her. Hope she’s doing fine!
Fruit market on St Lucia's main street
Fruit market on St Lucia’s main street
The beach of St Lucia, you have to be really careful here because of the hippos and crocodiles - it's their territory
The main beach of St Lucia, which goes on and on.
Another smile that makes me smile
Another smile that makes me smile
Wooden pathway during sunset
Wooden pathway from the beach to the parking lot, it’s no surprise to spot crocodiles underneath.
Cape Vidal beach
Cape Vidal beach within the St. Lucia Marine Reserve, still no hotel or resorts allowed, only some camp sites. I really hope it will remain like this for a very long time.
Male kudu
Male kudu, who has the most elegant jumping/running style of all the bush animals. We were left in awe seeing one jumping across the road in front of us.
Another kudu watching us
Female Kudu
Dinner...
Hardly imagine to find sushi in a country like South Africa. We went for the usual local dishes though.
Kayak tour on the river, watching hippos and crocodiles
Kayak tour on the Mfolozi river for hippos and crocodiles watching. Despite much warning, people still come swimming in here on occasions. A couple days before we arrived, a newly-wed couple went in for a midnight dip and was never found again.

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A "traffic" sign in the crocodile centre
No words needed 😉
St. Lucia Crocodile Center
Buying some fruit on the way to our next destination.
Buying some fruit on the way to our next destination. Yes, we ate them all.

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She does like chilli!!
She does like chilli!!

South Africa ’14, Part 3: Hluhluwe National Park


Originally we didn’t plan to visit Hluhluwe Park (pronounced “shlushluweh”) because we were going to spend 5 days in Kruger already, but since it’s just a short drive from St. Lucia where we were heading from Umngazi River, we thought dropping by for a night would be fun. We’re so glad we did. Writing this post from our 2015 perspective, it was way more interesting compared to Kruger even though it is only about one-30th of Kruger’s size. When you’re there you really feel like you’re part of the nature around, the roads are empty and sights are clear for kilometers on end. All the animals are so calm they’re wandering around right next to your car totally unawared (and unimpressed) of your existence. While you have to be patient to find any Rhinos in other Parks, they’re everywhere here, both Black and White Rhinos, for it being a transition hub for the authorities to distribute and control/protect the Rhinos population in all South Africa.  It’s still hard to understand  why people nowadays still believe their horns be a god-sent medicine. It’s made of the same type of protein as your hair or fingernails (Keratin), why not chewing your nails instead?

The whole park is made up by two parks in fact: Hluhluwe & iMfolozi running from North to South. Since it’s quite a small Park, it doesn’t take long to cover its ground so we did one half in the afternoon we arrived and the other half the next morning before heading to St. Lucia. It turned out to be the Park we enjoyed the most on this trip.

Arriving in the park
First sight at the entrance of the Park, we knew immediately it was a promissing sight.
Sunset in the SAN (South Africa National Parks) camp. Basic accommodation but you have everything you need at for prices.
Sunset in the SAN (South Africa National Parks) camp. Basic accommodation but you have everything you need at a fair price.
First animal spotting in the morning. That guy watched us closely but was totally unimpressed.
Hyenas are quite aggressive animals but this guy’d probably had a good hunt that night so he was totally unimpressed as we stopped our car right next to him.

First elephants in sight

Mother and child
White Rhinos with flat mouth: these mother and child walked in front of our car for a long while.

It’s not the color that separates Black & White Rhinos for them having similar color, it’s actually the shape of their mouths that also define their eating habbit. In German, the Black Rhino is called the “Spitzmaulnashorn” (pointed-mouth Rhino) because they eat by picking fruits and leaves from branches. The mouth of White Rhinos like these in the picture above are wide and flat for grazing on grasses.

More rhinos, we saw many of them all day long
Black Rhinos with pointed lips/mouth

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Zebra on the way back to the camp
Burchell’s Zebra on the way back to the camp

Last year we were lucky to take a glimpse of some Mountain Zebras on the West Coast because they are nearly extinct. Burchell’s Zebras are more common, actually they’re everywhere. We really like them, they’re not as human-shy as giraffes and let you approach quite close.

This kid was right behind our bungalow
This kid was right behind our bungalow

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This guy was in our way so better be prepared to use the reverse gear
This guy was in our way so better be prepared to use the reverse gear
Beautiful Impalas, some locals told us that they are also called "McDonalds" fro lions
Beautiful Impalas, some locals told us that they are also called “McDonalds” in the bush
Male impala
Male impala with a bird looking for bugs
P on top of our Toyota HiLux hunting for good pictures
P on top of our Toyota HiLux hunting for good pictures
Wildebeest / Gnu
Wildebeest / Gnu
Shamwari bird
Shamwari bird
Finally, some giraffes
Finally, some giraffes
So elegant
So elegant
Maybe a little less elegant...
a little less elegant ;-).

South Africa ’14, Part 2: Umngazi River – our kind of paradise


When I saw some pictures of the Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa the first time while planning our trip, I knew we had to make a stop here. It was a long drive from Drakensberg, not in terms of distance but in terms of time because of the very curvy mountain highways across Kwazulu-Natal province. The resort is nicely located at the Umngazi River Mouth where it meets the Pacific ocean, very secluded from the rest of the crowds along the coast around Durban. It is the oldest beach resort in South Africa dating back to 1906. The staffs were friendly and attentive, the foods were beyond delicious, and they had the most amazing home-made chilly sauce I’ve ever tried, and I tried pretty much everything(!). Do you know any resort where the chef went around every night asking every guest if they were happy with their meals? This is that kind of place. The rooms are on the modest, eco-friendly side  so nothing really luxurious, but decent and clean. What they lack in luxury they more than make up for it with  this view…

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Ocean view from our bungalow

and this Spa…

Spa at it's best. 2 hour program with massage, bath, champagne and a priceless view
Spa at it’s best and a million-dollar view. We spent one entire afternoon here, first with a two-hour couple massage & facial then who-knows-how-long in this tub afterwards. Champagne in the afternoon is always a good idea ;-). We slept like babies that night.

and the exclusive beach of course . At low tide, you can cross the river on foot to reach the beach. Other than that there’s a small ferry taking you to the other side anytime you want. All you have to do is go to the port and ring the bell.

Beach day
Often we had the whole beach for us all alone

 

View from the ferry boat that carries you across the river to the beach
View of the entire resort from the ferry that carries you across the river to the beach. I still miss this view every now and then.
In the resort
The garden

The garden/pool area

That's the flag to raise when you're looking for (another) drink at the pool - great service all over the place
No more shouting for hotel staff, just raise the flag and they’ll be at your service

The pool

Horseback riding is a so-called community event, organised by the local people living nearby
Horseback riding organised by the local people living in the area, one of the many activities offered by the resort
Looks like John Wayne - almost....
My John Wayne 😉

 

The must-have selfie

Sunset Umngazi river tour, watching fish eagles
Umngazi river sunset tour, watching fish eagles

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Playing dart after dinner. I have to admit, the dart right in the middle was hers.....
Playing dart after dinner. I have to admit, the dart right in the middle was her’s…..

During the 5 days there we didn’t get on the car once. We spent our time going for long walks on the beach, horse-back riding with the local kids, taking the sunset tour along the river, reading some in the library (yes, they built a library from books left by hotel guest, which I think is a genius idea), and the rest of the time lounging around the pool and bar area. It was exactly what we needed after the long winter in Europe. It was so relaxing that we were really sad to leave.

Writing this from today perspective (19.02.2016) we’re kind of ready to move on from South Africa cause we’ve “been there and seen it all”, at lease those places we wanted to see, but this is the only place that’d probably make us come back someday.

Au Revoir

On the way to our next destination. A funny shop in some village in Kwazulu-Natal.
In some village in Kwazulu-Natal on our way to the North. We couldn’t have said it any better so Have a Ding Dong Day!